The thing that worries me about asking questions at the local building dept is they will surely ask why I want to raise the ceiling in the garage and I don't really want to mention I'm installing a lift if I can avoid it. Since it's a gable end, I believe the loads are low and am hoping I can do this with 2 x 10 LVLs. I'd like to install an 18' wide door and so the header must span about 19'. The existing doors are 9' wide, with separate 2 x 10 headers. Would glue at the joint also be recommended?Įventually, I would also like to replace the 2 separate garage doors with a single large door (the lift will be centered in the garage). What is the best way to attach the new bottom ties to the old, hard, rafters? Are screws ok? Lag bolts? Trying to nail into old lumber is usually difficult. The un-altered rafters that had no tie would all have one added. Roof pitch is 6:12 so I think I should be able to gain about 2' of interior height, in the area of the lift) by moving the rafter ties up 1/3 the total rafter height (and tying them at every rafter). The ridge board is a 2 x 10 (I think) but is not one continuous beam (It has a joint around 6 ft from back wall), so I'm not sure it would be classified as a structural ridge beam. It's about 23' x 23 inside, 2 x 4 walls (16" oc), 2 x 6 rafter roof (16" oc) with 2 x 8 bottom tie beams, 48" oc. The house I recently bought in central CT (snow loads) has a 2 car detached garage built in early 60s that I plan to make shop-ready, meaning wiring/outlets, insulation and raising the 8 foot ceiling for a 2 post lift.
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